‘Half-baked list’: UP’s new cuisine plan faces flak for leaving meat off the menu

SOme of Uttar Pradesh’s to the highest degree recognised non-vegetarian dishes do non seem in the say’s young culinary branding plan. The ‘One District One Cuisine’ (ODOC) scheme, which assigns signature foods to each district, has instead focused entirely on vegetarian items. This has led to divided opinions over representation of the state’s full food culture.The cabinet has approved the scheme, under which traditional dishes from all districts, such as Lucknow's Rewadi, Agra's Petha, Mathura's Peda, and Meerut's Gajak, will be given a new identity. The initiative focuses on improving packaging, branding and market reach, along with training and financial support for artisans and confectioners.Officials said each district will be assigned a “signature cuisine” that will be standardised, branded and promoted through exhibitions, festivals and digital platforms, along with support for training and improved packaging for local food producers.District-wise cuisine listLucknowLucknow – Rewadi, mango products, chaat, malai makhanHardoi – Potato puri, laddoo, laujhadLakhimpur Kheri – Banana, jaggery, khoya peda, kheer mohan, rasgullaRaebareli – Spices, mircha pakora, pedaSitapur – Butter cream, samosaUnnao – Black berries, samosa, kushali, unusual sweet itemIn 2019, UNESCO designated Lucknow a ‘Creative City of Gastronomy’ for its rich Awadhi food culture. This includes kebabs, biryani, nihari, and other traditional street food.AyodhyaAyodhya – Chandrakala, balushahi, kachori, peda, kulhad dahi-jalebiSultanpur – Peda, samosa, kadhai poodi, red pedaBarabanki – Chandrakala, red pedaAmethi – Samosa, jaggery kheer, dumplingAmbedkar Nagar – Balushahi, chaat, khajlaGonda – Dahi bada, kachoriBahraich – ChamchamBalrampur – Coconut-based sweet, kalakad, chaatSravasti – ImartiWestern Uttar Pradesh and NCRAgra – Petha, dalmothFirozabad – Potato-based snacks like tikki and kachoriMainpuri – Sohan papdi, potato preparationsMathura – Peda, khurchanAligarh – Dairy products, kachoriHathras – Hing-based items, sweetsKasganj – Moong dal halwa, snacksMeerut – Rewadi, gajakGhaziabad – Papad-based itemsGautam Buddh Nagar – Cake and bakery productsHapur – PapadBulandshahr – Kachori, pedaBaghpat – Balushahi, ghewarCentral and BundelkhandPrayagraj – Kachori, samosa, rasmalaiFatehpur – Bedmi puri, sweetsKaushambi – Jaggery productsPratapgarh – Amla-based itemsHamirpur – Dal-based preparationsMahoba – Date jaggeryJalaun – Local sweets and snacksEastern Uttar PradeshAzamgarh – Teheri, carrot halwaBallia – Sattu-based dishesMau – Litti-chokhaVaranasi – Thandai, lassi, kachori, Banarasi paanJaunpur – Imarti, sweetsThe initiative, announced by chief minister Yogi Adityanath on November 8 last year and launched by Union home minister Amit Shah on January 24, follows the ODOP model. The government has allocated ₹150 crore for the programme. Artisans and entrepreneurs will be eligible for a one-time subsidy of up to 25%, capped at ₹20 lakh. Debate over representationThe list has been criticised for being fully vegetarian and for missing several known regional dishes. The programme aims to promote district-level food specialities under a unified brand. Dishes such as Lucknow’s galawati kebab, Awadhi biryani, nihari, Rampur’s mutton korma and Bareilly’s meat preparations are not included.Pushpesh Pant, president of the Cuisine Society of India and food historian, told HT, “I find this exercise laughable and not worthy of serious comment,” adding, “There should at least be a dish that is distinctly identifiable.” He added, “Food doesn’t recognise man-made borders.”He later told PTI, "This seems to be a half-baked move that smacks of bigotry. In short, ignorant nonsense. I love all dishes. All I am saying is why engage in selective discrimination?"A senior MSME official, who asked not to be named, said multiple factors were considered, including branding value and implementation feasibility.Awanish Awasthi, advisor to Yogi Adityanath, wrote on X, “This step will empower local artisans while giving a boost to employment and entrepreneurship. Under the leadership of the chief minister, Uttar Pradesh is creating a new identity in taste, culture and economy.” MSME minister JPS Rathore told PTI, "We aren't banning any food or dictating food choices. We are merely promoting vegetarian dishes." He added, "In other words, we are showcasing food which we think best represents that district,"Chef Nitin from Lucknow told PTI, "Cuisines aren't just biryani and kebab. As a chef, I believe that vegetarian dishes are such a treasure trove waiting to be explored. Yes, it would have been nicer had they got some non veg on the ODOC plate but so what if it isn't," he said, adding that the list was full of "sweet dishes."(With inputs from HT's Rajeev Mullick and PTI)